An old coin's value comes from three sources: precious-metal content, collector rarity, and condition — and age alone guarantees none of them. A 2,000-year-old Roman bronze can be worth $10 while a 1943 copper penny is worth six figures. Start with the metal, the date, the mint mark, and the condition.
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Short answer: Based on 91 real completed eBay sales in the US (checked November 8, 2026), old coins typically sold for $2–$46 (median per model): Morgan silver dollar, 1921 (circulated) at about $46, Steel penny, 1943 at about $2.
Real completed sales on eBay in the US — what buyers paid, not what sellers are asking. Each sale is checked to be the exact item; graded copies, lots, parts and Best Offer sales (where eBay hides the real price) are left out. Updated November 8, 2026 · 91 sales checked.
"Pay at most to flip" is FlipTip's rule of thumb for resellers — the typical sale ÷ 1.6, which leaves room for eBay's fee (about 13%), shipping and a solid profit; "—" = too cheap to flip one at a time. Tap a price to work out your own number.
"Typical sale" is the median. "Most sold between" is the middle of the market — the middle 70% of sales when there are six or more, otherwise the lowest to the highest. Your item's condition, completeness and exact version move it inside — or outside — that range, so scan yours for its own number — or see how to check eBay sold prices yourself.
At the stall the question isn't what it's worth — it's the most you can pay and still make money after the fees and the shipping label. The "Pay at most to flip" column above gives a starting number for each model.
Free, no account. Or scan it at the stall — FlipTip gives you the max price to pay on the spot (try one scan free, no sign-up).
Silver coins (pre-1965 US dimes/quarters/halves, many European coins pre-1968) are worth at least their melt value regardless of collectibility. Gold coins even more so.
Within any series, a few date/mint combinations are scarce. The tiny letter under the date (mint mark) can turn a $2 coin into a $200 one.
Uncirculated coins are worth multiples of worn ones. Never clean a coin — cleaning destroys collector value permanently.
Double dies, off-center strikes, wrong planchets — mint errors are heavily collected and often worth far more than the regular coin.
Broad secondhand-market ranges to orient you — the exact value of your item depends on the precise model, edition and condition. Scan it for the real number.
Point your camera at the item. FlipTip identifies the exact model, edition and era, checks real listings on your country's marketplaces, and gives you a price range, a sell-speed score and a worth-it-or-skip verdict — before you buy or sell.
You also see the most to pay at the stall and your profit after fees. On paid plans and the free trial, in countries with a local eBay, the price comes with the item’s real completed sales — with dates you can open and check.
Check the date and country: US dimes, quarters and halves before 1965 are 90% silver; many European coins were silver into the 1960s. Silver has a distinct ring when tapped and no copper edge stripe.
No — never. Cleaning leaves microscopic scratches that collectors and grading services spot instantly, and it can cut the value by 50–90%. Sell coins exactly as found.
Rarity from errors or low mintage: the 1943 copper cent, 1955 double die, and 1909-S VDB are famous examples. Check dates, mint marks and doubling with a magnifier — or scan both sides and let FlipTip identify the variety.
Coins under ~$50 sell fine on eBay or local marketplaces. For rarities, get a second opinion from a dealer or grading service first — misidentifying one expensive coin costs more than all the cheap ones combined.
Each page shows what that one model actually sold for on eBay, what you keep after fees and the latest sales.
Thrift store, garage sale, flea market or your own attic — scan the item and know if it's a find or a pass.
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